To uncover innovative textiles, ones that weave science within the strands, look to the sportswear industry, whose never-ending quest is to develop fabrics that wear longer, look better, and enhance performance. But also should turn your eye to the home furnishings market. There, in the seemingly mundane world of residential and commercial coverings, works Suzanne Tick. The co-founder of Tuva Carpets and former creative director of KnollTextiles makes upholstery, draperies, wall coverings, and mesh screens—as well as lighting, rugs, and architectural products—that cross disciplines and challenge perceptions. Her processes also test the physical limits of manufacturing.
Texture and technology are Tick’s tools, innovative weaving techniques her hallmark. Take Close Knit, whose raised stitch pattern is created by crocheting three long strands of yarn into a circular tube shape, which is then piece-dyed and split to yield finished 54-inch segments. In other cases, it’s Tick’s unorthodox material combinations that produce gems. Items like Imago, a first-of-its-kind panel featuring fabric embedding in resin, and Entangle, glass tiles decorated by lacy screen-prints of translucent knit tape, create new typologies, posing questions about textiles’ very essence.
A master weaver, Tick thinks best on the loom, turning to the warp and weft to figure out how to work with a new fiber or to create a desired effect. It’s through such means she came up with Foil Wrap, a striated polyester wall covering resembling metallic mesh. The pattern started life as a one-off textile that Tick hand-wove from Japanese industrial steel yarn (That prototype was included in a 1998 exhibit at New York’s Museum of Modern Art); the piece proved too difficult to reproduce commercially, so she employed the softer, flame-retardant polyester. The loom is also the constant in Tick’s more experimental propositions, such as Crossform. Created in collaboration with product design Harry Allen, the fabric features fiberoptic filaments Tick wove into a double cloth, which Allen then molded into a sculptural three-dimension shape.
Entangle (Skyline, TK). An advanced screening technology allows this direct translation of translucent knit tape to glass. The pattern’s rippling and twisting lines are based on a scarf by Japanese textile artist Junichi Arai; the irregular thick and thin lines give the glass the softness and delicacy intrinsic to hand-woven cloth.
Crossform (2003). Fiber-optic filaments woven into a 3-dimensional sculpture. Made in collaboration with product designer Harry Allen, Crossform was created for the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum’s 2003 Triennial; it is now in the museum's permanent collection.
Enmesh (KnollTextiles, TK). This recycled polyester upholstery features a double beam weave construction and added metallic ground yarn that makes it glisten like steel mesh.
Close Knit (KnollTextiles, TK). A stretchable polyester textile with a 3-dimensional pattern. The piece is continuously knit into the shape of a tube, piece-dyed, then split down the middle to create finished 54-inch sections.
Triple Lace (KnollTextiles, TK). Vinyl upholstery with a three-layer print application. The first layer creates the ground foundation, the second is color represented by the weft threads, and the final layer is the metallic pigments resting on the warp threads on top. The end effect is that the textile appears to have interlacing threads.
Hard Rock (KnollTextiles, TK). Made by plying then pressing into a fabric two flat tape yarns extruded from metallic and pearlescent pigments. The result, reminiscent of taffeta, has the smooth finish of brushed metal.
Lyonese Velvet (KnollTextile, TK) This textile's pattern is not a burn out, but rather achieved via a two-color dye process. The fabric is woven on a loom created especially for the purpose.
Foil Wrap (KnollTextiles, TK) This technical grass cloth blending olefin and solution-dyed polyester is an industrial version of a handwoven stainless steel fabric Tick created for a 1998 exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art.
Photon (KnollTextiles, TK). By manipulating matte and shiny yarns so that they absorb and reflect light, this recycled-polyester wall covering reinterprets the classic honeycomb weave, creating an extremely tactile surface. The fabric does not contain CFCs or formaldehyde.
Life Line (Tuva Looms, TK). Woven-velvet, cut-loop carpet with high-contrast vertical stria inspired by zebrawood. Rather than the usual polyurethane, the backing is made of jute, a rapidly renewable material.